Last Day!!!

We can't believe it!!!
The first day on our own in Lima, we went north along the coast. Yesterday was our marathon (poor Brett), 8 miles, probably, heading south. Today we went east. We were hoping to see the ruins of Huaca Pucllana, a pre Inca site, 200 - 900 AD. The ruins themselves were closed today. Bummer. But we walked around the perimeter, and got a look at them. They were game sites of some kind. They're made of adobe style bricks. We have no idea how they have lasted in thismoist, foggy environment. We were told on our arrival in Lima that these ruins were discovered as a new condo or apartment development was being started. It's very impressive from the outside. We'll have to do some research. There is so much to find out about now!!!
The grand finale was a wonderful dinner on a pier that you can see in the first Lima post. It was fun, and another great meal. The meals and cooking here have been absolutely outstanding. We have never eaten better fish, prepared so well. OUTSTANDING!!!!!
We leave our hotel at 6:30 Lima time - 4:30 Del Mar time, and we should get home around 10:30 - 11:00!!

See you soon!!!
Adios!!!

Lima, Peru

We can't believe our trip/adventure/expedition is almost over!! The tour ended Sunday am, or really Saturday night. Most of the group had a 6>30 flight to Miami, but we're staying until Wednesday. Yesterday, Monday, we walked probably 8 miles. Poor Brett!! We went from the community we're in (there are 14 in Lima), Miraflores, down to the beach, along the Lima equivalent of PCH for a couple of miles, until we came to a big gate of some kind. Along the way we saw some surfers going out, a military training facility ON THE BEACH, and sort of met/talked with a fisherman, as Brett inspected their handmade wooden boats. We came back through two other communities - Chorillos, and Barranco. Great early dinner at a little caf right across the street from our hotel, and back later for Pisco Sours!!!
It's a busy city, VERY cloudy/overcast. We're told that it is ike this 8 months a yar, and then it rains. But it's easy to get around, and is friendly. Warnings on the map about pirates, but it hasn't seemed pirate/like at all. What fun! ! !
Photos when we get home!!!!
Adios!!!!

Cusco

We had a wonderful day in Cusco. We first went up to Saqciwaman (sp?) to see some Incan ruins. Over and over the Spaniards destroyed most of an Incan structure, and then used the Incan foundation for their own construction. Often they plastered over the Incan built block walls and painted Spanish frescoes. This site was right above the city of Cusco, so we had a fabulous view of the city.
We went, next, to what seems to be the main Cathedral of Cusco. The remaining Incans, minus any rulers, all of whom were executed (at the Cathedral), seemingly adopted the Catholic religion. There were some wonderful Incan artists trained in the Spanish Colonial style (remembering that I know little or nothing about Art History). These artists painted huge oil paintings of many religious scenes. By far, our favorite painting was of the last supper of Jesus. There are twelve disciples and Jesus having their dinner – roasted guinea pig, an Incan specialty. The fruit that they were eating was all Incan fruit – strawberries, avocados, etc. And the best part is that Judas’ face is . . . . . .PIZARRO! ! ! !
After lunch we were on our own. We walked around the town for a few hours, had a coffee drink and a new beer, and are turning in early. This morning we didn’t wake up until 6:40! ! ! Unheardof for us!! Tomorrow we have to be ready to go to the airport to fly to Lima at7:15, and you know we can’t skip breakfast!! So it will be an early morning!!!

Adios!!!

Machu Pichu #2

Up bright and early for the sunrise hike to the Sun Dial. It wasn’t dark. The sunrise we were looking for was the sun just coming over the mountains. Off we went. This was little higher than yesterday’s walk. But we we went slowly. Lots of huffing and puffing even at slow speeds. Only three of us and the Tour Guide, so we could move along.
We got up there in time. Some people find Machu Pichu to be the center of the world, as they do spots in Nepal or Sedona, Arizona. A few people who got there before we did were posed and ready for the sun. I had to remind Brett to be very quiet. It was a very contemplative site, being on top of a mountain, and seeing first the rays of the sun, and then the whole sun come up over the peaks. Our guide told us that the other primary sites for viewing the sunrise can be a little noisy, crowded or boisterous, so it was a good choice to come to the quiet spot. There were maybe 10 people at the Sun Dial.
After breakfast we went on the REAL hike, up to the Sun Gate. This was a 4 mile round trip hike, with a 2,000 gain in elevation. Huffing and puffing does not exactly explain it adequately, especially when the starting point is 7,000. Plus, some of the rocky “steps” are 18-24 inches. ARGH. Again, it was an incredible view. We were ABOVE some of the peaks and the ruins!! Insane.
Leaving Machu Pichu in the afternoon, back on the train to Cusco.
Adios!!

Machu Pichu #1

It’s time for Machu Pichu!!! We went on a bus from our hotel to Ollataytambo, where we visited ruins the day before. There we got on a train, that followed the Urubamba river up an incredible gorge. Huge, rocky, steep mountains on both sides. Very beautiful!! There were some ruins along the way.
You arrive in a town called Agua Calientes. The hikers that do the entire Inca Trail hike are probably happy about that. Then we bussed up to our hotel, just outside the Machu Pichu National Park. We immediately went into the park, and up to the Guard House. Just for some altitude references, Cusco is 11,400 feet. The hotel at the outside of the park was 7,000. There aremountain peaks all around, going up to 16,000 and 18,000 feet. We went slowly up to 7,500. You couldn’t take it all in. The engineering and organization of this site is phenomenal. There are buildings and rooms for so many functions. There’s original paths that go EVERYWHERE. The rocks, like yesterday, are HUGE. When you get to these various locations, you just can’t believe what you are seeing. This was all built in the 1400s, and wasn’t discovered until 1909-1911, when Hiram Bingham, a Yale professor from Hawaii, got some kids from the local villages to bring him up here (by ropes!). Fortunately, the Spanish didn’t find it during their plunder.
Tomorrow we’re planning on two hikes – up to a spiritual site, the Sun Dial, for sunrise, and a little later to the Sun Gate, where the sun comes through for the Summer Solstice.
Adios!!

Peru Day #2

It is absolutely amazing to be in this area. The terraces and many buildings are from the 1400s. Many of the most remarkable structures were built with the sun's rising for the summer and winter solstice appearances. The aqueducts are still here, bringing water from the glacier. The walls are built like enormous legos, carved and moved by hand.

We spent the morning at the fortress of Ollantaytambo, at the end of the road from Cusco in the Sacred Valley. We climbed the 300 feet. Whew - 9000 foot altitude makes a differencee. (Gulp- tomorrow is Machu Pichu - 1000 feet I think we were told!)

In the afternoon we saw a beautiful mini-horse show - Peruvian Paso horses. I even rode one!!! We then visited a world famous ceramic artist's studio. He has work in the Chicago Field (I think) Museum, and he recently gave a talk in Washington D.C. on Peruvian Art. His name is Pablo Seminario.

We riding the train tomorrow!!

Adios!

Peru Day #1

Here we are in Peru, land of the Incas!!! Hard to imagine that I am in Peru. I've taught (maybe) about the Incas so many times, and HERE WE ARE! ! !

We flew from Lima to Cusco this am, after a long day of flying on Sunday and overnight in Lima. Right down the middle of the Andes - snow, villages, lakes! It was incredible. Although it wasn't so companionable, we both ended up with window seats,on opposite sides of the plane.What a flight it was!!!We headed straight for the the "Savred Valley of the Incas." We stopped along the way at a reserve for Camelidae - llamas, alpacas, vicuna. We were able to be in the pens with them and feed them!!! We followed Urubamba River, through the Urubamba Valley.

There are many little towns along the river. Two of them were celebrating their patron saint today, so there was a parade going on in one. We saw oxen doing their job, etc.etc.

We're now in an incredibly beautiful lodge for tonight and tomorrow, and it has Wi Fi, so maybe we can send some photos!!! Tomorrow we're doing some walking - we're not sure how high. We were at 11,000 feet, but down in this beautiful valley we are closer to 9,000. It's noticeable, but so far so good! ! ! !

Adios! ! !

Our last day in the Galapagos Islands!! It was great, but this week sure went fast! ! ! !
Brett went on one last deep water dive. He loved it again. He said it was the best ever. While he was there, I took the zodiac in to the beach at Garner Bay. It was like being at the Children’s Pool in La Jolla times ten. One of the naturalists who does a count each week counted either 162 or 192 sea lions. A large percentage of them were mothers with babies. The big difference is that you could walk right between them, and they would just continue sleeping! ! ! The babies that were nursing made the exact same noise as baby people, slurping away!!! I was close enough that I could see the sucking a swallowing as I heard each slurp. We saw a few altercations, but fortunately, they were between sea lions, not us. Brett got there after about an hour. We looked around a little more, then back to the boat.
After lunch (really, we should never be hungry again!!!) we made our last landing at Punta Suarez. Mores sea lions, BEAUTIFUL marine iguanas with a surprisingly bright red coloring, blue footed boobies and their babies, and then, AMAZINGLY, albatross! ! ! ! I don’t know what the plural is, but there were tons of them, and babies, too.
Tonight we have to pack up, and get ready to . . . . . . .HEAD FOR PERU! ! ! !
Adios!!!!
OH MY GOSH – I wrote the previous part before dinner. Dinner was great. Then there was a surprise cake and singing by the crew for a birthday. Then the lights went off, and there was singing in Spanish and commotion and chaos and it was an ANNIVERSARY cake for us. Two shocking surprise parties in one month. I’ve aged a lot!!! We don’t even know who told them. Both Brett and I have mentioned it to a couple of people, but who knows who told . . . Anyway, it was very nice (and more shock and awe)!!!
ADIOS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Galapagos Day #6

We started off the day at the Post Office Barrel, on Floreana Island, where whalers would leave a pick up mail primarily bound for England. When the whaler got home, he would deliver any mail from the barrel that was going to a neighbor. When we checked the barrel this morning, we found mail going to China, Israel, Holland, and many spots in the U.S. Brett and I have a card to deliver to Carlsbad!!! We also left a batch of cards. Who knows how long they will take to arrive!!!!
We rode the zodiacs around a small islet – Champion – looking specifically for Charles Mockingbirds. We saw one – it s small mean bird our naturalist told us. They eat babies of all kinds, with their very strong beaks.
Brett got ahold of some diving weights, so he was very happy snorkeling today. They have wetsuits for everyone on board, but only the naturalists have weights. So, one of them was not going, and Brett got his weights. He found one of those crazy sea lions that thinks he’s Dexter – romping all over the place, trying to have his picture taken. Brett got a good photo, but you’ll have to wait to see it!!!
Finally, we went on a hike at Punta Cormorant. There’s a brackish pond here, where you are likely to see flamingos. There are 480 flamingos in the archipelago, divided up between 20 brackish ponds. Sometimes they have seen 125 at this pond, but not today!!! (None for us!) But when we got around the pond to the beach we saw HUGE batches of sting rays – 20 at a time, and everyone wanting to take their picture. It was a little nervewracking!! But no one got stung – some people felt them sort of float by in the surf. It was crazy!!!
How can tomorrow be the last day of the Galapagos for us???
Adios

Galapagos Day Day #5

I have forgotten to mention - - - THERE ARE NO MOSQUITOS! ! ! ! that was the biggest health concern that the travel medicine people told us about. So, great news!
We are back on our regular schedule now, up at 5 – 5:30. I know, weird. We had plenty of time to have coffee and tea and breakfast before the longer hike this morning. We hiked on the northwestern coast of Isabella Island. This is the biggest one, shaped a little like a seahorse, if you look at a map. We went along a sort of lava coast, and then inland for awhile. We saw our final type of iguana – the land iguana. This animal is very solitary – not the big piles we’ve gotten used to seeing. Also, they are very a very pale, yellowish color. Incredible to see them just strolling/plodding along. We saw several, and none of them were thrilled to see us. We, however, were thrilled to see them. The camera equipment on this trip is pretty amazing – everything from point and shoots to major cases of cameras/lenses/video/etc.
On the inland portion of the hike, we spotted a tortoise, out on her own, in the bushes ! ! ! She was a young (?!?!) one, our naturalist told us, around 25 years old! This was a very hot hike, even though it was early morning.
In the afternoon, Brett went snorkeling again and I went on a zodiac ride, into the mangrove coves and estuaries. The “Able Seaman” (driver of the boat) turned the engine off in the various coves, and we just floated along, watching for animals. TONS of turtles, many varieties of fish, and most impressive, three kinds of rays – several huge manta rays, and group of five golden rays and what looked like a leopard ray (I can’t remember the name)! !! The naturalist told us that he had once seen a group of about 40 golden rays – it looked like a golden carpet on the surface!!! A different zodiac group saw a flamingo! ! ! Brett was continuing to look for the elusive seahorses, but they continued to be elusive. Too bad, but he saw sea urchins with spines about 6 inches long!! Plus a huge variety of fish! ! !
Finally, stargazing in the Southern Hemisphere!! What a day!!!
Adios!!

Galapagos Day #4

Today we were on the front deck of the ship at 6:30 – the boat was traveling to the furthest western part of the Galapagos. There are all kinds of currents going on, which cause the water to be colder, have more nutrients, and therefore different animals – sometimes whales and dolphins. So we were watching for them!! Also, we would be crossing the equator, and the ship’s crew told us there would be a special ceremony. I was a little apprehensive, as Alice told me when her Semester at Sea ship crossed the equator, the tradition was to shave your head or be doused with fish guts. Hmmmmmm
Fortunately, neither of those two things happened. They keep pirate costumes on board for the kids to wear, and they were the equatorial pirates, with the crew joining in.
We went on the zodiacs to the edge of a “shield volcano.” Along the way were TONS of sea turtles. The most we’ve seen from the boat. Also, all kinds of birds, perched along the sea wall/cliff.
Brett went on the snorkel here – there is a remote possibility of spotting sea horses, and they’re deep, so I wasn’t on that trip. Brett looked, but didn’t see them. The water was supposed to be quite cold, but he said it wasn’t. I, of course, didn’t believe him, but they measured the temperature at 66, and that’s about what it’s been all along the way.
We ended up on the island of Fernandina – the youngest island – for an incredible walk around the marine iguanas and sea lions. There were hundreds of the iguanas every time we turned around. Incredible. I sat down to get sand out of my shoe, and almost sate on one. They’re SO well camouflaged, even though after the hatchling stage they have very few predators.
We were watching mother sea lions with their babies that were in the one-week-old range. The big male, father of all the babies in this location, was barking away full blast in the little cove. All of a sudden a second male apparently tried to land. Or, he did land, and the father, or dominant male SHOT out of the water like a torpedo. Which meant that the invader male also shot like a torpedo. RIGHT BETWEEN OUR LITTLE HIKING GROUP! ! ! Two three-hundred pound plus sea lions, 20 mph, 8 feet away!! Even the fancy photographers didn’t get photos of the actual event, but the one I took seconds after is pretty good. Watch for it next week!!!
I can’t think of another place in the world where you could have these kinds of experiences! ! !
Adios!!!!